S/V FêNIX'S 2006 Adventures

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FêNIX
Adventures 2006

Start May 2006, End November 2006
Jacksonville, Florida via Panama to Whangarei, New Zealand.
10,000+ miles in about six months.
In May 2006 FêNIX and I set out on a grand adventure.
Sailing south and west from the balmy waters off the Florida coast
to the tropical paradise of the south Pacific, we went exploring.

For general information about Cape Dorys

For more of my commentary about this part of the cruise go to this thread on the Cape Dory Website.

Approximate passage distances:

Jacksonville, FL to Kingston, Jamaica 1115 miles
Kingston, Jamaica to Colon, Panama 545 miles
Balboa, Panama to Santa Cruz, Galapagos 890 miles
Santa Cruz, Galapagos to Hiva Oa, Marquisas 3000 miles
Fata Hiva, Marquisas to Rangiroa, Tuamotus 590 miles
Rangiroa, Tuamotus to Raiatea, Society Islands 280 miles
Raiatea, Society Islands to Raratonga, Cook Islands 540 miles
Raratonga, Cook Islands to Aitutaki, Cook Islands 140 miles
Aitutaki, Cook Islands to Suvarov, Cook Islands 385 miles
Suvarov, Cook Islands to Pago Pago, Tutuila, American Samoa 445 miles
Pago Pago, Tutuila, American Samoa to Niue 290 miles
Niue to Vava'u, Tonga 235 miles
Vava'u, Tonga to Suva, Fiji 435 miles
Suva, Fiji to Whangarei, New Zealand 1085 miles

2005 was the year of FêNIX's rebirth. After sitting for nearly one year in my driveway undergoing a major re-build, FêNIX was ready.

FêNIX sits on a trailer waiting to return to her element.

FêNIX shows off her new cutter rig with Yankee and staysail.

Before departure she was slipped on the St. Johns river
in Jacksonville, Florida.

Jaimaca, Mon!

Unexpected light and non-existent winds caused an unplanned stop for diesel fuel in Kingston, Jamaica. This stop was nearly a disaster as I just kissed the reef lying off Jamaica’s east end in the early morning hours before my arrival. In Kingston I met Rooney, a ham radio operator from the Intercontinental and Mobile Maritime Net. He took me to a small shopping center where I purchased a couple of items. We then returned to the harbor and shared some life history at a local bar. I got to quench my thirst with a couple of cold drinks. (Late May 2006)

Panama Canal

For many years I thought about a transit through the canal. Many stories were told about the passage, some good, some bad. Fortunately FêNIX’s experience was good. (June 2006)

Numerous boats anchored in the "Flats" await transit through the canal.
Atlantic side.

New Friends in Panama

While awaiting transit of the canal I met many new and interesting people. Al is a 71 year old recipient of a heart and kidney transplant. He was circumnavigating while promoting organ donation.

Al and Catalyst a Nor’Sea 27.
It is smaller even than FêNIX.

Numerous preparations are needed before making the transit. Paperwork and fees and a few additional items.

FêNIX and her new fenders!
They are used tires wrapped in plastic..

Underway

Transiting the Atlantic side was all done very quickly. From the Flats to the lock is a short distance. Night was approaching and there wasn't time to run about doing the photographer thing. I did not get any pictures from the Atlantic side and our night time mooring in Gatun Lake.

We started the second day early. Here we are powering toward the small boat short cut in Gatun Lake.

Powering in the early morning calm.

Jose was our "Advisor" during the transit. The advisors are not pilots in training. Jose was a second mate on a container ship but wanted to spend more time at home. He now works a shore side job and does transits on small boats as an advisor. This required a one year training program. The main reason there is a long delay when transiting in season is the shortage of advisiors. It is only a part time job as yachts mostly make the transit in the spring.

Jose in white shirt.
Clinton is one of the line handlers.

Mira Flores Lock

I had the required four line handlers. A skipper, Steve, and his crew, Clinton, were bringing a boat from the US to Australia. My other two line handlers were a young Brazilian couple, bicyclists and backpackers.

One of my line handlers stands in readiness
as we approach Mira Flores.

Everyone alert and on the ready for the first step of going down to the Pacific.

Jose in dark blue windbreaker and other crew
as we approach Mira Flores.

Before entering the lock FêNIX was side tied to Little Coconut. So she became like a remora, just along for the ride. I did use FêNIX’s small diesel to assist our passage through each section of the lock.

Captain Pete guides Little Coconut and FêNIX
into a step of the lock.

The awesome cavern opens up to swallow our little boats. Each lock has three steps, raising or lowering about 27' in each step for a total of about 81'.

Steve stands ready at the bow.
He handled the port bow line of
our raft.

After the uneventful transit we stopped at the Balboa Yacht Club for a little over a day. While there I bought some diesel and a few food items. Then it was off to the...

Galapagos

The passage from Panama to the Galapagos was difficult. The Gulf of Panama is 120 miles from north to south and not more than 200' deep. Choppy seas and wind on the nose made for a tough start to the trip. After clearing the gulf it was still over 700 miles to the Galapagos. This passage was done close reaching. The last two days required close hauled sailing to make southing. (Late June, 2006)

We approached the coast of Santa Cruz island with the arrival of sunrise. By early afternoon we were anchored bow and stern in the small bay.

FêNIX in Aroyo Bay, Galapagos.

This bay is exposed to southerly swells. Local boats have used up all the prime anchorage space with moorings. It was often a very bouncy place.

Aroyo Bay, Galapagos.

This is how the other half go cruising. That is one half of one percent. This very large ketch did not have a center cockpit, it had an enclosed bridge amidships. Aft on the port side there was a large hatch in the hull. It was the eqivalent of a garage door for the dingy... er...umm... that is the tender.

Mega Yacht "Independence" about 125'

Many people have heard about the wildlife of the Galapagos. There are many unique species that inhabit the islands. This diversity of animals and plants is one of the things that got Charles Darwin thinking about evolution. I do not think this is quite what he had in mind however.

A seal homesteads Paulu's transom scoop.

Marquisas

The big passage. Nearly 3,000 miles, the trip from the Galapagos to the Marquisas is the longest passages to be made on the "Coconut Milk Run".

FêNIX in the south Pacific
Sailing along in a gentle sou'easter.

Since I previously visited French Polynesia and it was already late in the season I did not spend too much time in the group.

Virgins Bay, Fatu Hiva.
My old friend "The Face In The Rock" appears unchanged
after 14 years.

Tuamotus

The passage to Rangiroa was a bit boisterous at times.

Big wind and bigs seas.
FêNIX flies along on the way to Rangiroa.

The challenge and adventure of entering an atoll.

Slack high tide.
Perhaps the easiest way to enter Rangiroa.

Sometimes a lagoon can seem like the ocean.

48', 22ton Saveke pitches like a bathtub toy
during a storm that blows through Rangiroa's lagoon.

Society Group

A funny thing happened on the way to Papeete. Departing Rangiroa the winds were light. But things changed rapidly. By the time I got 30 miles north of Papeete the wind and seas were big and from the south. Instead of going to Tahiti we went to Raiatea.

Still strong winds and big seas
on the way to Raiatea.

Uturoa, Raiatea is the main city of the sister islands of Raiatea and Tahaa.

FêNIX and others at the town docks
of Uturoa, Raiatea.

FêNIX sailing in Raiatea's lagoon.

FêNIX on the way to the ocean.

Cook Islands

Once again strong wind and big seas accompany FêNIX on her passage to Raratonga.

A view from my back porch.

Two different storm systems delayed the trip to Raratonga.

After three days lying hove to conditions
improve a bit.

At rest in Avatiu harbor, Raratonga.

FêNIX moors med style in the small harbor.

A quick overnight sail sends us to Aitutaki.

Under genoa alone FêNIX heads due north
to Aitutaki at 5 knots plus.

A lagoon in paradise, Aitutaki, Cook Islands.

Clear shallow water shows off a million
shades of color.

Off again to Suvarov atoll, now just ahead.

Good sailing with
winds from the ENE.

You say "poe tay toe" I say "poe taa toe" or some say "Sue var rov" others say "Sue war row" but by any name its beautiful. John, his wife Veronica and thier four young sons live here for six months as caretakers. They are a very pleasant and hospitable couple from one of the other Cook Islands.

A glimpse of the delights of a tropical lagoon.
The main motu of Suvarov atoll.

This bust of Tom Neale is a bit more worn since I last visited Suvarov.

Over the span of 25 years Tom lived his dream.
Are you reading this folks!!.

Tom occupied and modified this house during his tenure.

Though a bit weary this house still stands
after more the 1/2 century.

The government built this new house for the resident caretakers and thier families. The open area below has become the daily gathering place for yachties and John and his family.

A nice home for the tropics.
Two stories helps protect it from the occasional bad storm.

Samoan Islands

Now just a green blur on the horizon I say goodbye to Suvarov, on the way to American Samoa. It was sad to leave such a beautiful place and wonderful people.

One of the most pleasant sailing days so far.
FêNIX glides along at 5 knots under genoa alone.

After passing the half way point and a day of unsettled weather, conditions moderate.

How to sail 150 miles a day in your Cape dory 28.
FêNIX zooms along at 6+ knots under genoa and staysail.

Much has changed since my last visit to Samoa. There are lots of new buildings and many more personal vehicles. The addition of ATMs, cell phones and internet cafes has changed these small Pacific islands.
In Pago Pago harbor I also had a big surprise.
Freedom 25 years later.

A view of some other cruisers in Pago Pago harbour.

back to the Cook Islands, Niue

After a couple of days of calms we are able to sail south from American Samoa to Niue.

FêNIX gently sails under her asymetrical spinnaker.

Niue is rather an unusual island. Like all the islands in the south Pacific its origins are volcanic. As the volcanic caldera forms and rises from the seabed this creates islands that are all made from cooled lava and geologically quite young. The Marquisas are a good example. In geological time the caldera slowly sinks back into the seabed. As this happens coral slowly grows around the perimeter. If the coral grows as fast as the island sinks the coral forms an encircling reef. The now slowly shrinking lava island remains for a time inside the encircling reef. The Society and Hawaian groups are examples. As the old volcano continues to sink all that is left is the fringing reef with a lagoon inside. Then every once in a while something unusual happens. The old sunken lava dome is given a push from below. This raises the coral reef and creates an island of almost solid coral well above sea level. That is Niue's geological history. It is a very old island and its closest neighbors are hundreds of mile away.